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Peaks & expeditions >> Peaks
(Compiled by Harish Mamgain, Manager, IMF)
57 proposals for foreign expeditions have so far been received till the end of June 2001 to climb various peaks in Indian Himalaya. Foreign expeditions are increasing with sustained and positive efforts of Government of India and Indian Mountaineering Foundation.
This year Indian climbers made the first ascent of Panch Chulli-III, a virgin Peak, which attracted many leading mountaineers of the world, including Mr Chris Bonington and Mr Stephen Venable. Tirsuli West (7035m), still a virgin Peak. Efforts of British and German teams have so far not succeeded to reach its top this year.
Expeditions to various peaks are still on some are to return back. Reports so far received from the expeditions are reproduced here. Details of the other expeditions will be reported on receipt of the reports.
Tirsuli West (7035m)
Colin Richard Knowles
16 th April to 28 th May
The 8 member team set up BC on a meadow along the stream draining Siruanch Glacier, approximately at a height of 100 metres above this stream. Expedition did not attempt main objective, Tirsuli west, due to excessive danger from hanging glaciers. Shambhu Ka Qilla (6160m) Peak was climbed by four members of the team from South Face on 16 th May 2001.
16 th May to 6 th June
The 8 member team established BC at upper Bagani Glacier at approx. height 4680m and attempted to reach the summit from South via West Ridge. Smaller peaks traversed upto 6320m while attempting to reach West Ridge of Tirsuli West. Submit was not reached because of bad weather, clouds, avalanche danger and loose rocks.
20 th April to 25 th May
Good experience, organisation and weather condition made it possible to the summit by the 4 member team on 10 th May from West Ridge. Submit was reached direct from Camp 2 in 7 hours. E Ratouis made the decent on skis.
14 th May to 15 th June
In spite of unstable weather with rain/snow almost every day in the afternoon, 4 member team able to put its three climbers on the summit via West Ridge on 6 th and 8 th June. Team members brought down equipment and garbage left on the mountain by the previous teams.
Meru Central (6450m)
25 th April to 1 st June 2001
Meru Central, a technically difficult peak with frequent stone falls, avalanches and continuous bad weather, having very few safe places to camp at higher places thrown out the efforts of 2 member team allowing them to return back from 5850m height.
29 th April to 12 th June
Base Camp was established by 4 member German expedition at an altitude 4450m on Nandanvan and maximum height reached 5000m (Camp-I). Bad weather condition made their attempt unsuccessful.
6 th May to 3 rd June 2001
7 members, out of 8 member team reached the summit of Shivling via West Ridge in three groups on 23, 24 and 25 th May 2001. ABC was set up at 4850m, C-I at 5300m and C-II at 5,850m. The first week after establishing the BC, weather was unstable with several snow falls. Equipment of the previous expedition left at C-I and C-II was brought down by the expedition members.
Peter M Takeda
16 th April to 5 th July
The 4 member team could not achieved its objective of climbing Meru (6261m). However, two members of the team succeeded in reaching the summit of Kedar Dome (6831m) via North West Ridge on 14 th May. Maximum height reached on Shivling 6000m.
10 th May to 10 th June
On 2 nd June two members reached the summit of Nanda Ghunti by a new South Face route which is steep but direct to the summit, follows a curving couloir between two pinnacles (50 degree - 55 degree angles) to gain upper slopes. Two members reached summit visa North Ridge which also has steep start (50 degree) but otherwise is easy. Long strenuous approach from Hom Kund over ronti saddle which has a big cornice on its North side. Team member unable to attempt Trisul-I because of continuously poort weather with cloud, snowfall, thunder and lightning of most days of the trip.
18 th May to 10 th June
The 8 member team set up its Base Camp on 25 th May with the help of 22 porters. Only one member Marek Safarik along with one HAP made it to reach the summit on 2 nd June 2001.
26 th May to 25 th June 2001
The 8 member team set up its Base Camp at Vasuki Tal on 2 nd June. 56 low altitude and 3 high altitude porters were engaged to carry load to Base Camp. Camp-1 was set at 5200m and Camp-2 at 6000m. Good weather made it easy to the expedition team to put its five members on the summit on 13 th June via its normal route.
Kedar Dome (6830m)
Michael J Chapman
22 nd May to 26 th June 2001
The 10 member team from Tapovan followed the ridge of Gangotri glacier and crossed Kirti Glaicer where team established its Base Camp at 4680m. Bhagirathi group of peaks in the East, Kirti Stambh in the West and Kedar Dome in the South were visible from this point. Waist deep snow and danger of avalanches prevented the ascent. Maximum height reached 6200m.
International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation
Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports
Nehru Institute of Mountaineering
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute