UIAA International Mountaineering and Sports Training Course
A Report by Amit Chowdhury, Member IMF and VP UIAA
Introduction
From April 19th to 21st, 2024, the International Mountaineering and Sports Training Course, hosted by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) in collaboration with the Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo (FASA), took place in Bariloche, Argentina. This event coincided with the UIAA Executive Committee and Management Board meetings, creating a comprehensive platform for learning and collaboration in mountain sports.
Participants explored a diverse array of topics including mountain medicine, techniques, and safety. Lectures covered crucial subjects such as water management, altitude illnesses, hypothermia, frostbite, and gender differences at high altitudes. Experts shared insights and best practices, fostering a rich exchange of knowledge and experiences.
Panel discussions addressed issues like responsible climbing, training curricula, and the impacts of climate change on mountain ecosystems. Sessions on modern rescue gear and comparative analysis of rescue operations provided a comprehensive understanding of contemporary challenges and solutions in mountain sports.
Hands-on workshops allowed participants to apply their knowledge in real-world scenarios. Esteemed international experts led these workshops, offering invaluable opportunities for skill development and experiential learning.
Day One
The course was guided by Urs Hefti, President of the UIAA Medical Commission; Martin Lascano, member of the UIAA Executive Committee; Mijel Lofti, UIAA Medical Commission representative and IFMGA Mountain Guide for FASA; and Marcelo Parada, Medical Director of FASA.
Day 1 began with welcomes from Peter Muir, President of UIAA, and Magdalena Kast, President of FASA. Urs Hefti outlined the course agenda. The first session on environmental concerns featured discussions on wastewater and responsible climbing. Steve Long elaborated on training standards, and Federico Campos discussed anchor safety standards.
Sessions on climbing in cold conditions included discussions on hypothermia, frostbite, and protective clothing. Altitude-related concerns in sport climbing were addressed by Eduardo Vinhaes, Antonio Nicolau Villages, and Matthias Hilty. The final session covered gender differences at altitude and advanced first aid in mountain areas. The day ended with a panel discussion on modern technology in climbing, featuring Steve Long, Fred Campos, Luigi Festi, and Craig Ross.
Day Two
Day 2 focused on workshops, beginning with rescue operations in Argentina. Marcelo Parada, Dra. Carolina Codó, Mijel Lofti, and Fran Velazquez highlighted rescue strategies in various mountain regions. Participants then split into rotating workshops covering topics like water treatment, portable altitude chambers, anchor safety, stretcher rescue, and knots and pulleys. The day concluded with closing remarks from Marcelo Parada and a celebratory dinner.
Day Three
Day 3 emphasized practical application through a rescue simulation at Cerro Catedral, led by CAX Bariloche. Participants experienced hands-on rescue operations and gathered for a debrief session. Certificates were distributed by the UIAA Office, with closing remarks from Peter Muir, Urs Hefti, and Magdalena Kast. The day ended with a closing lunch or dinner.
Detailed Coverage from Some Lectures
High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema
Representatives from the Swiss Alpine Club discussed high-altitude physiology, focusing on adaptation and risks above 2000 meters. They covered high altitude illnesses like AMS and HAPE, highlighting symptoms, diagnosis, and treatment. Preventive measures like acetazolamide use and careful ascent rates were emphasized. The importance of tailored medical support and informed decision-making during expeditions was underscored.
Acute Mountain Sickness
The session addressed physical and genetic processes impacting outcomes, with emphasis on accurate diagnosis and treatment. It highlighted metabolic differences, symptoms like nausea, and the role of controllers in managing conditions. The importance of understanding various factors influencing outcomes was reiterated.
Frostbite
Kaste Mateikaite's lecture on frostbite stressed prevention and early recognition. Risk factors include cold conditions, altitude, and individual susceptibility. Preventive measures involve proper clothing, weather awareness, and good hygiene. Treatment recommendations include assessing for hypothermia, gradual rewarming, and medical attention for severe injuries.
Hypothermia
The session covered temperature regulation, stages of hypothermia, prevention, and treatment. Practical recommendations for managing hypothermia in the field and challenges in specific regions were discussed. The importance of timely intervention strategies based on the stage of hypothermia was emphasized.
Climate Change
The impact of climate change on mountain guiding was discussed, with safety concerns due to high temperatures causing route changes. Legal implications of outdated guidebook information were raised. Collaborative efforts in Canada for environmental conservation were highlighted. The session underscored the need for updated safety protocols and personal accountability when using guidebooks.
Conclusion
The International Mountaineering and Sports Training Course provided valuable insights into mountain sports, emphasizing knowledge exchange, skill development, and practical applications. The event fostered collaboration among participants and highlighted the importance of adapting to contemporary challenges in mountain environments.