Height: 6861 m

Team : American expedition

Leader: Peter M. Takeda

Team Size:35


Period:September to October


A five-member team from USA led by Peter M. Takeda attempted Nanda Kot. They approached from the Milam valley setting up base camp on 7th September. From 8th September till 13th October they operated on the north face of the mountain. They reached 5945 m before a huge avalanche caught them and the team was trapped in a crevasse for five days with two major storms raging.

The Italian expedition, which was in the adjoining valley, was involved in sickness and death of its leader and this team was helpful. The Americans retreated after the avalanche but climbed up to Longstaff’s Col on the shoulder of Nanda Devi East before returning to the base camp.

The avalanche hit them on the night of 23rd-24th September at Camp 2 about 5950 m. They had stayed in an ice cave on the 23rd night and had a very narrow escape being trapped in the cave for more than three days being hit by three different avalanches. Finally they drilled an ice hole to safety and climbed down the mountain on their own. It was a most heroic self-rescue achieved.