Team: Indian (Army Karakoram Expedition)
Leader: Col. Ashok Abbey
The expedition was conducted in the post monsoon in four phases, during 31st August to 7th October 2006. The team commenced moving up the Siachen glacier on 1st September,making rapid progress. Traversing the glacier, base camp (4900 m) was established at the ‘Oasis’, the junction of the Siachen and the Teram Shehr glacier on 12th September.
This peak rises at a vantage point, in the centre of the glacier. It was first climbed by Fanny Bullock-Workman in 1912 with Italian guides. The 12-member team established Camp 1 at 5320 m on 14th September, approaching it from the west face. The team climbed the highly avalanche-prone mountain, on 18th September, at 1305 hrs 1.05 p.m. after an 8½ hour ascent from the final camp.
This was the second attempt in the history of the mountain. It was first climbed by a Japanese team in 1976. It was a remarkable climb as they entered the glacier across Bilafond la, crossed Staghar Pass into the Shaksgam valley and climbed the peak of Singhi Kangri from north. They had found the south face too difficult.
This was face that this expedition challenged, a new route from an unclimbed face. Base camp (at 5100 m) was established on 16th September on the upper Siachen glacier. Camp 1 was established after negotiating the difficult west face of the mountain at 6325 m on 21st September, which was the crux of the climb. Only one more camp was required to be set up, prior to attempting the summit of Singhi Kangri and Pt. 6850 m. Due to very inclement weather and dangerous snow conditions, further attempts on the mountain had to be called off on 29th September after a long wait.
This was traversed from the snout to Sia la, the western most tip of the Siachen glacier.
This was also traversed. A ground rece of the northeast face of Saltoro Kangri I 7742 m and Saltoro Kangri II 7705 m was also carried out for a future attempt.